It’s 9:15AM and we are already pulling into our first winery in the hamlet of Castiglione Falletto…gulp! Piedmont is a region located in Northwest Italy just north of Genoa and south of Milan. We drove in from the Cinque Terre to a region neither of us had ever been to. We aren’t your typical wine snobs who planned their trip to the second most popular wine region in Italy months ahead of time, hand-picking the wineries and preparing questions to ask the local wine makers. While we both know a bit about California’s Napa/Sonoma Valley wine regions, Italian wines were basically new territory.

I decided to book us an all-day tour of the Piedmont Wine Region through Tasting Tours di Silvia Aprato, recommended by our lovely hotel in the quaint village of Monforte d’Alba. The company provides all-day and half-day cooking classes, wine-tasting and food tours. We chose the Barolo and Barbaresco Wine Tour and tailored it a little to pack in as much Piedmont wine knowledge as possible by visiting two Barolo area wineries and two Barbaresco wineries, thankfully with an outside lunch on the tiny main square of Barbaresco in between.

This region is really nothing like Napa Valley. Instead of one big valley, for instance, the Piedmont area is made up of constant small hills and rolling vineyards peeking in and out from every windy turn in the road with the Italian Alps shining in the distance. Second, the towns are very, very old, as in Medieval times old, and the tradition of wine-making in the area dates back to Greek and Roman times. Finally, unlike in California where you can just show up at most wineries to taste, in Piedmont you typically need a reservation ahead of time or a tour guide.

The first thing we learned was that the Piedmont area actually produces 16 different wines, both red and white. And there are 8 provinces producing these different wines. Our tour focused on the Langhe Valley around the big town of Alba where the world-famous reds of Barolo, Barbaresco, Dolcetto, and Barbera wines originate. Barolo and Barbaresco wines come from the same type of grape, Nebbiolo. Our tour guide was so knowledgeable about the region’s history, flora and fauna, the wine-making process in general and the Piedmont wines specifically that I think she should write a book…or two.

So, back to our 9:15 in the morning tasting, at the family-owned and run Azelia winery. We were given an exclusive tour of the winery by Lorenzo, the 5th generation son to continue the family’s tradition. Thankfully the tour took us to just past 10AM so we didn’t feel too guilty imbibing some of Azelia’s tremendous wines…that’s still pretty early though now that I look back on it!

The tour was particularly special because we were allowed into the old cellar where the family’s wines dating back to the 30s were kept as special heirlooms to commemorate how they hid them from Nazis during WWII destruction. We tasted their more recent dolcetto which is only slightly sweet and is considered an everyday drinking wine by Italians. We also tasted two of their Barolos, one of which was of the utmost quality named a Riserva from 2007 and are typically aged at least 5 years. They were phenomenal with full body, fruity, licorice and spice notes, and meant to be aged for the best result.

Next we visited the opposite end of the spectrum, one of the largest Barolo producing wineries, G.D. Vajra. This wine-maker is distinct in the region for brining the first Riesling grapes to the area, and now twenty years later they have started a new trend. We also tasted their Dolcetto, Barbera, and of course Barolo. The Barbera was our favorite. It was lighter with less tannins which I personally prefer and apparently is meant to be drunk young not aged like a Barolo or Barbaresco.

After lunch in the charming hilltop town of Barbaresco we began tasting the wines from the hillsides around it. What’s interesting to me is that the wineries will own perhaps 2-10 rows on vines on one hillside and a few on another maybe 5 miles away and a few more in the vineyard next door. Meaning, instead of buying up whole vineyards or hillsides, wineries share the wealth of a great terroir but tend to their own vines.

We visited and tasted SO many wines at Moccagatta winery just a minute from the main village of Barbaresco. This family run winery split their family home (literally in half) and vineyards a generation ago and next door a completely separate winery is owned by Moccagatta’s brother’s family. Our tasting room manager was the daughter of the family and she helps run everything from the vineyard to the tasting room.  We were treated to the delights of 4 different Barbaresco wines from 2012 to 2005 and simply from different vineyards known as crus. The Barbaresco was lighter in color and easier to drink I thought because of less tannins than the Barolo. Our host was exceedingly knowledgeable and friendly.

Our final winery of the day, phew!, was Albino Rocca. The way we made it to this 4th tasting without falling asleep in the Mercedes touring car driving us around as part of the day’s tour cost, was to remember to not actually drink every full glass you are given. It’s okay and actually considered the correct way to taste! Albino Rocca’s tasting room is situated on one of the most beautiful hilltops we saw and the winery host sat us down for a real lesson, graphics and all, on Barbaresco wines which was quite helpful. I found overall the Barbarescos easier to drink and we ended up buying a bottle of Albino Rocca’s Ovello Barbaresco because we just couldn’t resist. Thankfully many of the wines from all 4 wineries are exported to the US so if you find them let me know!

By the way, the wine is not the only reason to come here. The hillsides are not only lined with vineyards but also with hazelnut trees. Therefore the famous Nutella factory and family is located here (and began here) and hazelnuts and the chocolatey hazelnut spread is found at almost every meal. Bagna Cauda is from here too and this zesty dip with vegetables is not to be missed. If that wasn’t enough however for the gourmet traveler this region is the world’s capital of truffle-hunting, especially for the exorbitantly priced white truffle. Our tour guide even pointed out the town where dogs go to be trained in truffle-sniffing!

There is something for every type of gourmand or basic wine and food lover in Piedmont and we barely scratched the surface. We both cannot wait to return someday and eat and drink more to our heart’s content and I hope you will add it to your future vacation plans as well. For more in depth information on Barolos and Barbarescos check out WineFolly.com for some fun infographics and tips for buying and enjoying the wines.

HOTEL/RESTAURANT RECOMMENDATIONS:

Wine, Food, and Cooking Class Tours: Tasting Tours di Silvia Aprato – Varying price ranges, half and full day, driver and guide, very knowledgeable tour guides

Hotel: Villa Beccaris – In the town of Monforte d’Alba, restaurants within close walking distance, beautiful breakfast solarium with stunning views of the hills of vineyards, pool

Hotel: Castello di Sinio – A modern made castle that is beautifully decorated and rooms are perfectly appointed, pool

Restaurant: Da Felicin (also a hotel) – In Monforte d’Alba, inside and outside courtyard seating, feel like family, multi-course meals of traditional Italian & Piedmont ingredients

Restaurant: Trattoria della Posta -Outskirts of Monfrote d’Alba, featured in the movie “The Trip to Italy” with Steve Coogan, indoor and outdoor seating, fine dining, bagna cauda dip and baked onion not to be missed